Update January 2022.
I've been playing with a dual gate mosfet from AliExpress, specifically a 40673. It's clearly "venerable", and most places seem to think it's end of life, but I got ten for a little over $20, and it seems that if I put the RF into gate 1, and bias that to 0V (source level, in other words) and bias gate 2 to +4, with a 2k resistor in the drain line, it'll give some voltage gain (maybe x2, not much, but with a great input impedance, and low output impedance). But then, if I drag g2 to about -4V relative to the source, it shuts off the output entirely. A little RC timeconstant on that should do the trick to soften the envelope. I've not actually implemented this yet, but the breadboard tests are looking very promising. I imagine there are lower device-count ideas, and ideas using more "traditional" components, but as a learning exercise with a decent behavior, this is looking very promising.