# Tag Info

12

It doesn't sound like you're doing anything wrong. Most likely, you are simply only hearing strong stations; broadcasters put much more power into their transmissions than amateurs are legally allowed to, so you can hear them over a much wider range. Advice on the practice of listening: For finding signals, first of all, always use SSB. Even if it's the ...

10

I did a bit more reading, and it seems that the new version of the firmware meant I needed to use a different chirp profile. The solution that worked for me was to find a factory image from a radio with the firmware version I have (which Chirp reported), then import my channels via csv, and clone that resulting image onto the radio.

5

No power light could just be a burned out bulb or dead LED (I have a 259B...don't recall if the power button ever lit up). If you don't have anything connected to the antenna connector, then it's perfectly normal for the SWR meter needle to go all the way to the right because it's indicating a high SWR. Put a 50 ohm dummy load on the analyzer and see what ...

4

I'm not familiar with the exact behavior of that model of radio (and the manual was not very helpful), but a possible explanation in general is that you have CTCSS/DCS squelch enabled, and the repeater is not using the same tone/code. However, for this to match the observed behavior it would have to be the case that a squelch setting of '0' disables tone ...

4

It might be harmonics of the oscillator, as you suppose, but it also might be that any mixer doesn't only produce the difference frequency of its two inputs ($|f_\text{RF}-f_\text{local oscillator}|$, here), but also higher-order intermodulation products (like $|2f_\text{RF}-f_\text{LO}|$ and $|f_\text{RF}-2f_\text{LO}|$). I think I've posted multiple ...

3

While I wouldn't rule out old capacitors or whatnot, if it's anything like some of the radios I've played with through the years, the solution might be a simple mechanical one: can you open it up enough so that you can hold the dial from moving while gently nudging the linkage from the FM circuit tuning mechanism until it lines up?

2

If your antenna is hanging down the side of the building that may be your very problem! Most DXing on HF is done on horizontal antennas. If yours is vertical then you be getting only a sliver sized cross section of the horizontal signals. The station you did pick up may be driving a vertical antenna. The cheapest way to test this is to put up a ...

2

Try reducing the power and see if that helps. If it lets you transmit longer then the battery needs to be replaced. If it shuts off right away at low power then you may have a bad final or other malfunction in the rig itself. If you suspect the battery after this test try to borrow one and see if it does the same thing rather than buy a new one. Unless ...

2

Multimeters are generally used to measure AC volts at line frequencies, i.e. 50/60 Hz, and yours is almost certainly not accurate at 1 GHz. Similarly your multimeter's DC volts setting is designed to measure static DC volts, not the DC bias of a 1 GHz signal. To sum up, your multimeter measurements are probably completely meaningless. If you want to see ...

2

I have just joined so have to answer instead of commenting (not enough reputation yet). I have one of these receivers and know a little about them (I have to say it performs excellently and is very nice to use). They are now fairly old so are a bit prone to dry solder joints and dry caps. There are quite a few plugs/ connectors that can occasionally give ...

2

I had the same issue. I adjust the Azimuth every day, then sometimes it fails between 15-20 degrees. Then I replaced the regulator with a new one. Now it is ok.

2

Tecsun is very similar to Baofeng in that anybody selling them expects a certain number of DOAs and other failures. They already know that QA on those rigs is directly reflected in the price. In the past I have had good success with getting vendors of like this to replace the radio body (no battery or antenna) simply by writing to them. I have gotten ...

2

I assume you have extensively bench tested the kit and have not found any problems. Having several years of experience with high altitude radios in the Alps, I would suspect that you are getting static build-up on the antenna that is glitching the radio. A Polyphasor, or equivalent, to ground can mitigate static build up. Failing that, a couple of megohms ...

2

Everything works very well, but on some frequencies I hear loud AM broadcast stations. I think this is caused by harmonics from the VFO, but I am not sure. What you're possibly hearing is intermodulation distortions created by your receiver from the mixer and amplifier. A local AM broadcasting station has high radiated power, making the problem even worse. ...

2

After reverting MARS/CAP mod everything works as expected. I don't know whether the problem was caused by the mod per se or maybe just one of FCC cables was a little bit misplaced when the mod was made.

1

Found out what it is. Something really stupid. Before I had a TNC-PI. That TNC-PI modem just starts sending as sook as it gets data. The Kenwood on the other hand checks for a signal on the waves. If any; no packet transmission. And apparently this controlled by the squelch. I had the squelch set to "always listen" but then the radio things there's ...

1

SSB requires a signal from the microphone: only when you are talking there is a signal generated. For CW you need to connect a morse key or paddle to have output signal. When FM and AM are operational there is nothing wrong with your power amplifier. In case of a defect: check the microphone by listening to the AM or FM output signal and when that is ok and ...

1

That's an oddball receiver, employing a so-called Polyakov mixer. Its local oscillator is supposed to run at half the received frequency. For 80M, the local oscillator runs at about 1.8 MHz. The RF amplifier ahead of the mixer should be very linear...this one is biased weakly, and could easily distort when presented with strong input signals. This type ...

1

It is unlikely that both op amps have failed, especially since the other half of each op amp drives the meters, which you stated are still working properly. I am initially concerned that you are seeing 5.84 VDC at the rotor. The input to the range pots that are in the rotor should be ~8 volts. This may indicate that you have a wiring error or a high ...

1

Have you tried this in memory, program, and vfo mode? If there are no memories saved, it may squawk at you because there's nothing to scan. I suspect it will do the same if you try to scan in 'program' mode without the lower and upper frequency limits saved in memory channels 6 and 7 respectively for PG.S-1 and 8 and 9 for PG.S-2, though the manual doesn't ...

1

The radio came back from the Yaesu's dealer today. My warranty card now has an entry stating 'hardware processor reset'. It seems they had to open the radio to do whatever had to be done. In other words: it seems that in case like this there is nothing you can do on your own, and you're better off giving your HT to professionals. An interesting tidbit here ...

1

Sorry for the long overdue reply but you didn't tag your response with my ID so I didn't get notification of your response. The control box azimuth reading and the computer azimuth reading share a common 6 volt feed from the rotor potentiometer circuit but each has their own calibration pot. If the control box meter reading is drifting from the computer ...

1

Have you checked the voltage on the battery because I think it's full. My UV-82 charger starts blinking like that when the charge is complete. It is oscillating between charge/no charge state as soon as it sees full voltage on the battery.

1

Usually this happens when you accidentally bend the inside of the jack (inside the radio) with the programming cable (or speaker mic) plug. In general you have to carefully open the radio and bend the contacts back down. Miklor has some instructions on opening the radio. There are also some videos of opening the radio on YouTube.

1

I figured it out: For the weird beeping, it was just a bad mike, and I had to replace that. For the spurious transmissions, I should've specified I was on a SLA battery, and the battery was running low

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