Polyphaser sells a WK-1 weatherproofing kit for their devices that are not weatherized such as the IS-50 series. It looks like a plain sheet of weatherproofing tape like any other, such as might be used to seal coax connections.

I'm hoping to install the protector on a heavy copper bulkhead I got for a steal at a hamfest. Installed in such a way, I don't see how the assembly could be wrapped. The kit comes with instructions, which ostensibly include some clever way around this problem. However, I refuse to pay $17 for a piece of tape. What's a good way to weatherize these surge protectors?

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    $\begingroup$ You're not paying for the tape; you're paying for the knowledge behind it. <g> (No, that wouldn't convince me, either) $\endgroup$ – Pete NU9W Aug 14 '17 at 10:50
  • $\begingroup$ You're actually paying for the listing on the tape, since all things related to antenna entry have to comply with NEC 810 and UL. Good ole regulations. $\endgroup$ – user2104506 Aug 17 '17 at 14:56
  • $\begingroup$ Sure, but unless I'm mistaken there's a lot of splicing tape that's listed and costs a lot less than $15 for a few square inches. $\endgroup$ – Phil Frost - W8II Aug 17 '17 at 17:51
  • $\begingroup$ DXEngineering has a very similar looking waterproofing kit with an instruction manual: static.dxengineering.com/global/images/instructions/… - it looks like Coax Seal in a rolled up sheet, and electrical tape. $\endgroup$ – user3486184 Oct 13 '17 at 20:29

I have gone the simple route for most of my outdoor connectors in recent years. I use an inverted container over the connections and leave the bottom open. This fully waterproofs the connections without any concern of diurnal condensation build up. Inspections and alterations are very easily done.

If I am concerned about connector corrosion, such as on a rotor lightning protector block, I apply an anti corrosion compound such as Deoxit. Because the connections are shielded from rain and snow, the compound will not be washed out over time.


If you can disassemble the unit, apply clear RTV sealant between the two halves of the body and between the N connectors and the body. You may also need to use the sealant on the screws. Get the kind that does not emit acetic acid fumes, which could corrode internal parts.

N connectors have red silicone gaskets and don't really need sealing. However, I always stretch-wrapped electrical tape tightly over the connector and past both ends, onto the coax and the receptacle. Worked for me many times, even for UHF connectors outdoors. Many years later I unwrapped the tape and disassembled the connectors, and there was not a trace of corrosion.

Don't forget to apply a dab of silicone dielectric grease on the center pin. That will prevent corrosion due to any moisture in the air entrapped inside.

I doubt if you to have to cover everything if you do the above.

Here are some N tees that I made many years ago. They were at the top of a 70' tower for several years, sealed with RTV and electrical tape just as I described above. Most of the silver oxidation occurred in the years since.

W0BTU N phasing tees

W0BTU N phasing tee

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    $\begingroup$ I would suggest rubber splicing tape instead of standard electrical tape. It is designed for this use and fuses to itself making a solid mass of rubber (rather than merely having adhesive holding layers together), and if wound well can actually press firmly against the plate the connector sticks out of. And when removed it leaves no gunk. $\endgroup$ – Kevin Reid AG6YO Aug 13 '17 at 21:44
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    $\begingroup$ What brand of RTV sealant doesn't emit acetic acid fumes? I'd make it a question, but the question would be off-topic. $\endgroup$ – rclocher3 Oct 15 '17 at 16:37

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