The short answer to your question is no. I know this thread is a bit dated, but here are my two cents worth as an amateur and professional. Take whatever K0BG says with a grain of salt; he means well but does not understand modern vehicle electrical systems.
As already stated, K0GB refers to an HF antenna and has nothing to do with VHF and UHF applications. Any HF antenna made for a vehicle is a compromised design with poor efficiency. No way around it, as it is impossible to establish a proper ¼-wave ground plane and whip lengths. Therefore common-mode current is guaranteed to be an issue you can never eliminate. At best, you can make it somewhat usable. Without a proper ground plane, there will be an RF current on the coax shield and all the vehicle wiring. It has to go somewhere to balance out currents.
On the other hand, with VHF, it is possible to install an antenna without compromises, and UHF is straightforward. Once you move up to VHF and UHF frequencies, it opens doors to commercial antenna manufacturers that offer amateur band antennas. You are no longer limited to amateur-made products for HF. Mobile antennas for commercial LMR and Public Safety services are not compromised unless installed incorrectly in the wrong location. If installed in the wrong spot, the consequences are not as severe. The coax length between the radio and antenna is at a minimum ¼ wavelength long or longer. It will contain common-mode currents preventing it from backing up into the vehicle wiring, causing possible vehicle electronics malfunction, aka RFI.
The correct location is the roof of a vehicle. Dead center is perfect. The rooftop is the only flat horizontal surface on a vehicle, large and high enough to act as a ground plane. 2-meter antennas are the least flexible in mounting location because it has the largest ground plane requirement of 1-meter diameter. It does not give you much room to work with to move the antenna around off-center and maintain at least a ½-meter from any roof edge. UHF or 70 cm is more forgiving with roughly a 1-foot diameter ground plane requirement. So forgiving, you can get away with the center of the trunk lid on an automobile.
Location is crucial not only for proper operation but also for operator safety exposure to RF radiation. Located on the roof, you are shielded and not in the main lobe of horizontal radiation. Using a trunk lip mount requires a 3-wavelength distance from the vehicle's occupants. Easy to do with 70 cm, not likely at VHF, and forget HF.
My best advice to anyone doing a mobile install is to refrain from using amateur guides, websites, and especially amateur radio manufacturers' installation instructions. Most are outdated and dangerous. For example, how many amateur radio equipment manufacturers and hams recommend running the radios' negative battery wire directly to the battery term post? That practice is fire-hazardous and guarantees you will have RFI/EMI issues. It places your radio battery negative and coax shield in parallel with your vehicle's negative wiring. You have engine cranking current, headlights, fans, electric seat/window, wipers, electronics, and ignition current flowing through your radios ground plane—simple parallel circuit law. Easy to prove with a Clamp-On Amp Meter clamped to your negative battery radio lead. Turn off your radio and start the engine while monitoring the current. Surprise! With the engine running, start turning things on and monitor the current. Why do you have vehicle current flowing on your ground wire and coax shield with the radio turned off? Terminate the radio ground wire to the nearest chassis hard point, and all that goes away.
If you were to be a professional two-way radio installation technician doing any work for Public Safety, military, government, and utilities require certification and following Motorola R56 Appendix G, Mobile Installation Standards and Technique. Covers every aspect of a mobile installation.