Almost any 160 meter antenna is a compromise. With limited space or budget, the compromise tends to be larger.
At first glance, a dipole that is shortened by loading coils might appear quite attractive. With well designed coils, the efficiency of a shortened dipole can be relatively good and the gain can be within a few dB of a full length dipole. But unless the dipole can be hung very high (> 40 meters and optimally 80 meters), the directivity of the antenna will be largely vertical making it more effective for local communications (NVIS).
Vertical antennas facilitate longer paths but they require a good ground system in order to improve their efficiency, especially with a shortened vertical element (< 40 meters). Many hams have success with an inverted L arrangement. A starting length of 40 meters of wire is common with as much vertical as possible and the balance of the wire running horizontally from the top of the vertical piece. This horizontal component is viewed as a capacitance hat.
It sounds like your situation will not allow elevated ground plane wires. As a result, run as many wires in all directions for as long as you possibly can and keep them very near the surface. Consider leaving them on the lawn secured with lawn staples so they sink into the thatch. The highest current in the ground wires will be near the vertical so more wires are generally better up to perhaps 60 or so wires depending upon your ground conditions. More wires has no downside other than additional cost and effort.
In order to minimize losses in the feedline, use a remote tuner at the base of the antenna. You may need to supplement the tuner with a large conductor base loading coil. Unless you are running high power, you can then run RG8X back to your shack with virtually no feedline losses.
The ability of the antenna to work on other bands will depend upon your final chosen geometry. You can model multiband performance with a NEC based program.